Sunday, March 24, 2013

Killpecker Sand Dunes



Located North of Rock Springs about 18 or 20 miles off of U.S. 191 you find the Killpecker Sand Dunes. This is the largest active dune field in the U.S. because it is still moving and changing, and it encompasses about 170 square miles. These dunes seem to appear out of nowhere on the Northwest side of the Red Desert, and move eastward across the continental divide into the Great Divide Basin. The view of this place on Google Earth is pretty interesting because it is easy to see the direction that the sand is going.

The sand dunes offer endless opportunities for many of the same activities that are enjoyed elsewhere around Southwest Wyoming but with some variation in the terrain. The dunes are fun to explore just by hiking around, although because of the nature of walking in fine sand this is not something for those that are out of shape.

The sand is a tremendous amount of fun to play in with your bare feet. The adventure kids love going to the sand dunes in the spring or fall when the sand is not too hot for bare feet. Running and jumping and rolling down the larger dunes is fun even for adults. Adventure Man’s no nonsense wife has even been known to let go of all inhibitions while playing in the sand at the Killpecker sand dunes.

In the spring and early summer large pools of water form from snow melt that creates active centers for ever manner of wildlife. These pools are very scenic and seemingly endless after a winter of heavy snow. The animals that are common are the usual assortment for Wyoming. Deer, pronghorn antelope, coyotes, horses, and the usual desert elk are common in the Red Dessert. Adventure man has run into large flocks of sage grouse around the sand dunes as well.

These are the most controversial animals in the Red Dessert because they are supposedly threatened. Considering how many of these sage chickens seem to be in the way while exploring the desert it seems hard to believe they are all that threatened. The biggest threat to the sage chickens is that they are exceptionally stupid and usually lack the sense it takes to get out of the road when cars are coming.

Heading out into the Killpecker Sand Dunes very early in the morning is a great time to do some animal tracking. With the nature of the sand it is easy to imagine how animals very easily leave foot prints everywhere they go. Even large beetles and other insects leave a trail of tracks behind them as they scurry across the dunes.
These ponds made of snow melt linger in the summer and are replenished with rain water.
They attract wildlife from all over the area.

In the winter time snow falls and blows all across the dunes. The snow and the blowing sand create small pockets of subterranean blue ice. These buried ice deposits form when blowing sand covers large portions of snow on the dunes during the winter. The sand blanket is such a good insulator that the ice can survive well into the summer. Supposedly with some training and practice you can spot the bulge in the sand dune that indicated buried ice. Once the ice is exposed it appears with an icy blue color. Adventure Man has only heard the stories of the blue ice and has spoken with those that say they have seen it but Adventure Man himself has never seen it.

An ORV staging area can be found at the dunes that offers a huge area open to four-wheelers and dune buggies. This is a very popular spot for locals who own such vehicles. Adventure Man usually prefers to walk so he tends to stay away from the OHV area in favor of the solitude of the multiple wilderness study areas that encompass the sand dunes.

Several other interesting sites are very near the Killpecker Sand Dunes. This makes for a nice day of adventure if you were to swing by a few of the other sites. These include the White Mountain Petroglyphs, a large sandstone cliff face with all sorts of interesting Indian writings. The Boar’s Tusk is an interesting peak shooting out of the desert floor which is the remnants of an old volcano. Some compare the Boar’s Tusk to Devil’s Tower in the other corner of Wyoming. They were both formed in a similar manner but Devil’s Tower is much bigger. North and South Table Mountains are also nearby located on the continental divide. They are two flat top mesas that provide interesting hiking and spectacular views. Many other sites are near the sand dunes so anyone who ventures out can easily see a few of these other places.
The Boar's Tusk from the dunes.

To get to the Killpecker Sand dunes drive north out of Rock Springs on U.S. 191 for about 9 miles. This is nine miles from the Elk Street exit of I80. Turn right onto a well maintained county road with BLM signage at the entrance. This is the Chilton road. You will see mileage signs indicating how far away it is to the sand dunes. Follow this road for about 14.8 miles until you reach a fork. You will see many other roads turning off but ignore them until you hit the 14.8 mile mark. Take the right hand fork.


Since the dune field is so vast there are several different places you could go to explore them. To get to the nearest spot you will drive for few more miles past the fork until you have gone 18 miles total. Turn left at this point and drive about 3 more miles. You will see the dunes all around you and you will know you are there. The total distance from highway 191 to this spot is 21 miles. This is an area where you can go to be away from the four wheelers. If you want to go to the OHV staging area then you would skip the last left hand turn and keep going about another mile before turning left.
Sunset at the Killpecker Sand Dunes.

This route can easily be driven in dry weather without 4WD. If you venture into the sand dunes themselves be very careful even if you have four wheel drive. In fact, don’t try to drive through the sand no how good you think your 4x4 is. Getting stuck in sand is very easy and once you are stuck the more you struggle the more stuck you become. If you have a four wheeler or a side by side they travel very well over the sand because they are light weight and have very wide tires that help the vehicle stay on top of the sand.

As always make sure that you are prepared for adventure in the desert by bringing plenty of extra water, even in the winter. Snacks, clothing, good shoes, sunscreen, a hat, GPS, and a shovel and tow rope in case you get stuck.
Adventure Man has a little brother that likes to run with the wild horses



People packing sand into all of their bodily crevices. At least they are having fun.

Adventure Man himself jumping off the dunes.



Monday, March 12, 2012

The Boar’s Tusk


Located out in the Red Desert, this interesting geological feature is about 30 miles north of Rock Springs, WY. The Boar’s Tusk is essentially a volcanic neck of some kind where all of the sedimentary rock surrounding it eroded away leaving this solitary igneous intrusion standing in the upper end of the valley about 400 feet off of the valley floor. This is not unlike another famous tower in opposite corner of the state. Devil’s Tower in northeast Wyoming is the same kind of formation as the Boar’s tusk but it is more than double the size. Oh well, the Boar’s Tusk is still worth seeing if you enjoy interesting landforms.

You can drive right up to the base of the formation and you can fairly easily climb about halfway up to what might be described as a saddle between the two main spires. If you have the training and the gear, you can do some rock climbing to get all of the way up to the top. The local raptor population uses the Boar’s Tusk for nesting so you might be advised to inquire with local authorities regarding nesting seasons, so that you don’t disturb the animals.
A view of the Boar's Tusk from the edge of the sand dunes.

The Boar’s Tusk is volcanic in its formation, made from various lamproite rocks. The rocks are very hard and very jagged so be careful and don’t fall if you do any kind of climbing around. The lower portions that can be climbed on foot without any gear are made up of very steep and loose debris so it is easy to slip and fall.

To get to the Boar’s Tusk take U.S. 191 North from Rock Springs about 8 miles to the Chilton Road turn off. Turn East onto the Chilton Road and follow it East and then North for about 15 miles. The road is gravel but it is usually in good shape and it is possible to drive the road at fairly fast speeds in some stretches. Stay on the main road and do not turn off on any of the side roads such as Long Canyon and Cedar Canyon, as you get closer to the Boar’s Tusk you will see it standing alone in the distance. At the 15 mile mark the road forks to the left and the right. You can go either way and then look for a two track that will take you to the base of the peak. The easiest way is to take the left fork as outlined in the route that accompanies this post. After the fork you can be to the formation in about 3 or 4 more miles.

The mileage sign that is posted at the beginning of the Chilton road.

The Chilton road can be traveled easily in any kind of car but as usual 4WD is advised to make it all of the way out to the Boar’s Tusk. The last section of road that takes you out there, regardless of your final approach, can be very sandy in some spots and rutted in other spots. If the roads are wet the going instantly becomes much more difficult but in the summer time they dry out very quickly once the sun comes out. Travel in the winter is fairly easy as long as it’s not snowing or windy, and this time of year can offer a different perspective of this area. You might also consider approaching the Boar’s Tusk from 191 farther north near the tiny farming community of Eden. I have never taken this route but I know this approach has less dirt road, but it means more miles total.
Looking to the North from between the pinnacles of the Boar's Tusk. The light color terrain in the distance is
part of the Killpecker Sand dunes.

On your way to and from the Boar’s tuck the usual high desert animals can often be seen: wild horses, mule deer, pronghorn antelope, and even a few elk. I have seen coyotes and foxes as well. A few times I have come across fairly large flocks of sage grouse standing right in the middle of the road. These animals suffer from severe stupidity. They will stand in the middle of the road and let you run them over, but obviously I would advise that you go really slow and let them move out of the way. The sage grouse is thought to be a threatened species so you must be friendly to these wild desert chickens.

The other thing to consider if you want to drive out to the Boar’s Tusk is a visit to other things in the neighborhood. These include the Killpecker Sand Dunes, The White Mountain Petroglyphs, Cedar Canyon, the Table Mountains, Steamboat Mountain, and a few others. No matter which sights you go to see, make sure to bring food, water and a full tank of fuel. This is another area where shade is rare so keep that in mind when you go.

Click here to download the route on Google Earth


The saddle area between the pinnacles.

From the southeast side.
A couple of the Adventure Kids can be seen on the rocks. 




Sunday, February 19, 2012

Firehole Canyon, Flaming Gorge


Firehole Canyon area of Flaming Gorge.

Located about 25 miles southwest of Rock Springs, Firehole Canyon is in the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, right on the shore of Flaming Gorge Reservoir. This is a great recreation spot for many reasons. Here you will find a developed campground, boat ramp, and a nice beach area for swimming. Along the 91 mile length of Flaming Gorge Reservoir there are only 3 designated swim beaches because of the fact that reservoir was formed by building a dam across a deep canyon and filling up an area with water to form a lake that is surrounded by cliffs. You can find a lot of nice spots around Flaming Gorge but this one has great amenities that are right on the water.

Flaming Gorge Reservoir began filling in 1964. This man-made body of water straddles the Utah Wyoming border but most of the reservoir is on the Wyoming side in Sweetwater County. Flaming Gorge Dam and the actual Flaming Gorge, both lie on the Utah side, set up against the north slope of the Uinta Mountains. Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area surrounds the entire lake and has a visitor’s and information center in Green River, WY.  

Firehole Canyon, Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.
Firehole Canyon is at the North end of the reservoir not far from the towns of Rock Springs and Green River. This is a great place to go and spend the day where all of the fun things that Flaming Gorge has to offer can be enjoyed in one place. Amenities at Firehole include a developed campground with paved roads and parking, potable water, covered tables, and flush toilets. Shade is a bit scarce in this high desert environment but there are a few trees in the area. A boat launch facility is also available for those interested in waterskiing and other such aquatic activities. A picnic area is there for the day trippers, and the beach area is rather large and allows you can drive your vehicles and gear right up to the edge of the water. A $5.00 day use fee is charged for anyone who just wants to spend the day, or even a few hours enjoying Firehole Canyon.

The surrounding red and white cliffs make Firehole Canyon an interesting place to explore. Just hiking around the area can reveal all sorts of interesting things. The 19th century explorer, John Wesley Powell set out on his famous expedition through the Colorado River drainage in 1869 just north of here in what is now the town of Green River, WY. He named the actual Flaming Gorge that the Green River flowed through, and he is also the one that gave Firehole Canyon its name. North and South Chimney Rocks are visible from just about anywhere in the Firehole canyon area. The cliffs and spires are made up of Mancos Shale, Mesa Verde Sandstone, and bits of the Green River Formation.

When I go to Firehole it is usually just for the day to do some water skiing, and to ride jet skis with friends. By July the water is warm enough to take a dip and cool off. The swimming at Firehole is nice, and the beach area is great for kids since the water doesn’t get deep very quickly. Just south of Firehole the fishing can be pretty good year round. Every winter the lake will freeze and it is common to see people ice fishing. Flaming Gorge has some huge fish in many varieties; some of the lake trout that come out of the Gorge are stunningly big.

Watch for mule deer, elk, and pronghorn antelope around this area. I have never seen any wild horses in Firehole canyon but I’m sure that there is a few around somewhere since they are so prominent in other areas not far from here. Once I saw a heard of about 100 antelope just south of Firehole canyon. I don’t think I have ever seen a heard of anything wild as big as this heard of antelope was. Fishing on the lake you can catch lake trout, rainbow trout, kokanee salmon, burbot, bass, and cutthroat trout.

To get to Firehole head south on US 191 just west of Rock Springs. As you travel along this road you will climb up onto a ridge that offers great scenery on both sides of the road. A few places along this road offer pullouts where you can get out to enjoy the scenery and take a few pictures. After 13.5 miles you will turn west onto the Firehole canyon road, a sign will help you know when to turn. Follow this road back downhill as it heads into the canyon. You will know when you get to the recreation area as there are plenty of signs, and of course you will notice the reservoir. The road is paved all of the way there and the roads are open in the winter time, although the recreation area is closed.

Firehole is a fun place to visit that doesn’t require a four wheel drive to access, nor do you need a boat to have fun. This is a place that I go several times each year because it is close, scenic, and has some useful amenities.

Adventure Man

Click here for Google Earth route


The beach area.

The campground
One of the Adventure kids riding a ski board.




Friday, February 10, 2012

Pilot Butte



A view towards Black Butte from the top of Pilot Butte.

One of the places that I have probably visited more than any other place around Rock Springs is Pilot Butte. This flat topped butte up on top of White Mountain is a fun place to go because it is so close to town but when you are there you are all alone with nothing but the wild horses and the spectacular 360 view from the top of the butte. I have been there in the middle of July and in the middle of January and it’s always worth the small effort it takes to get there.

Pilot Butte is a formation that is visible for miles around, but it isn’t visible from the towns of Rock Springs and Green River. This is because of the way that it lays well past the rim of White Mountain. This lonesome butte was a marker on the Oregon, Mormon, and California pioneer trails that came through Wyoming. As these pioneers came over South Pass and descended into the Green River basin, they knew that once they could see pilot butte to the south they were almost to the Green River. Considering what a desolate place the Green river basin was, any land mark that showed progress was a welcome sight and once they crossed the Green River they were not far from Fort Bridger.
The area around Rock Springs isn't really flat but when you are up on
White Mountain it sure looks that way. That is Pilot Butte in the distance.

The best thing about Pilot Butte is the view that it affords visitors who are not afraid to climb it. To the east the ridges that make up the western edge of the continental divide basin are visible. To the south Aspen Mountain, Wilkins Peak, and the Uintah mountains are prominent. To the North, the Wind River Mountains are spectacular if the air is clear, which it usually is. To the west you can see all the way to the Bridger valley. I have been up on Pilot Butte in the winter time when the air was especially clear and with binoculars the towns of Farson and Eden were easy to see to the north about 30 miles away, and I think, although I can’t be sure, that I could even see the town of Pinedale about 90 miles to the North up against the Wind River Mountains.
East towards the continental divide.

The best route to Pilot Butte is to take the Gookin-White Mountain road to the top of White Mountain. Once you reach the top of the mountain the road will come to a T where you will turn right. Head down this road that follows the rim of White Mountain for about 3 miles. As you drive down this road Pilot Butte will be visible on the left. White Mountain is interesting when you are up on top because it is so flat and the only thing that breaks towards the sky is Pilot Butte. After 3 miles you will turn to the left where there is an information board that gives some facts about Pilot Butte and the surrounding area.

At this point the route becomes a bit more rough and difficult. This is the portion of the route where 4WD may be needed. This road can be deeply rutted and if you are there in the winter or spring, the ruts will be full of snow and ice. Also be advised that the Gookin-White Mountain road that climbs White Mountain is a smooth dirt road but it is very steep. If there is any snow and ice it’s better to stay off of this road.

After you turn off of the road at the info sign or board, follow the road the rest of the way to the butte, which you will easily see. The road splits at one point and you could go to the left or keep going straight. Both roads head to the butte and neither one is any smoother than the other.
The steep part of the climb. If Adventure Man's 60+ year old mom can make it anyone can.

Once you get to the butte park where ever you want. At this point you will have to start climbing and the first part of the climb is tough because it is steep. This steepness only goes on for about 500 ft. but it can be a tough climb. After this short steep climb you will be at the base of the cliffs that ring the top portion of the butte. In the past there was a steel ladder that someone had built to help you climb the rocks to the top but the ladder broke apart a few years ago. A small piece of it used to remain to help you a little but that piece was also gone the last time I was there in January of 2012. This spot is really not difficult to climb because there is a nook in the rocks that gives you good hand holds and foot holds. I almost always take the Adventure Kids with me when I go and even the 4 year old can climb it with some help.

Once on top you will see that you are at the lowest point of the top and if you walk straight to the west along the trail for about a 1000 ft. you will reach the highest point of Pilot Butte and the 360° views are incredible. Make sure to keep you own adventure kids near you because the cliffs on this end of the Butte are about 300 ft. high. Elevation at the top of Pilot Butte is 7,949 ft.

Wild horses on White Mountain.
Wildlife viewing is always possible; this is Wyoming after all. Keep an eye out for wild horses which are abundant on White Mountain. Sometime you might see 15 or 20 horses along the few miles from the top of the Gookin-White Mountain road to the base of Pilot Butte. I have seen plenty of mule deer and antelope as well. Elk is probably a possibility on White Mountain but I have never seen any up there. Once when I was up on the butte I saw a coyote up there on top with me. I don’t know how he got up there but he must have found a way down because once he saw us he soon disappeared. And of course sage hens can be seen roaming about as well.

Make sure to bring some water with you especially if you go in the summer time. The steep parts of the climb might require some liquid refreshment. As always, a hat and sunscreen would be good since there is absolutely no shade anywhere. Because Pilot Butte is so close to town and you can get there, see the place, and return so quickly, there isn’t much of anything else that you will need. Don’t forget your camera.


North from Pilot Butte to the Wind River Mountains.


Pilot Butte in the winter.



Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Google Earth Routes and KMZ Files

For most of my adventures I will include a specific route that shows the way to the place that I am highlighting. These routes will be in the form of a KMZ file that can be opened in Google Earth. If you have Google Earth on your computer and you open the file it will automatically open Google Earth and plot the route and the file will show up in your My Places in the upper left hand menu. When you close your Google Earth program it will ask if you want to save the route.

If you right click on the route in your My Places directory and select Show Elevation Profile it will give you good information related to the total length of the route and changes in the terrain. As I said before, Google Earth is a great tool to help you plan any adventure.

Adventure Man

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Adventure Man Begins



Life is an adventure and those that don’t take the time to get out and see the world around them will never know what they are missing, and they will forever be trapped in a state of boredom. I for one refuse to be bored and I believe that no matter where you live there are things to do and places to see that you never would have thought would be there but once you discover them you are pleasantly surprised.

This blog is dedicated to my wanderings in the high, wind swept deserts of Southwest Wyoming. I am the Adventure Man because I can nearly always find an adventure even if it seems that there is none to be had. If you have driven across Wyoming on Interstate 80 you might think that the land is full of nothing, surrounded by nothing, with a few towns along the way that offer nothing, except gasoline for your car, and fast food for your belly. I80 is just a way to get from Denver to Salt Lake City, without having to go over the Colorado Rockies. This is true but there is much to see, and since I am currently living in Rock Springs, WY, I will be using this town, located in Sweetwater County, as my base camp and the beginning point for all of my adventures.
Rock Springs, WY viewed from White Mountain.

Rock Springs is kind of an interesting place of about 25,000 people, and located at a high elevation of about 6300 ft. We are actually higher in elevation than the town of Jackson, WY. This town is small but not too small, and kind of rough around the edges, but full of good people that are much like me. We like to have a good time and we like to take advantage of the wide open spaces around us. I am not originally from this town but I have been here for a few years now, and it has really grown on me, along with all of the interesting places that surround us in this part of Wyoming.

Rock Springs started out as a stop on the Overland Stage route and then when the railroad came through an abundance of coal was discovered in the surrounding hills. Coal mining camps for the Union Pacific Railroad sprung up all over the place back in the 1860’s. As the coal camps grew together a town was formed that primarily existed to supply coal to the locomotives used in the railroad. Most of the towns along I80 in southern Wyoming started because of the first transcontinental railroad that connected the west coast with points back east.
The old Rock Springs City Hall.

The railroad still runs through town, and there are still a few coal mines around but most of the economy around Rock Springs, and in Sweetwater county, centers on the oil and gas industry. Natural gas specifically is very abundant here and the town relies heavily on the production and exportation of this fuel to neighboring states. In fact 80% of the natural gas that feeds the west coast of the United States comes out of Southwest Wyoming. In my adventures, sometimes I come upon a well site or two but most of the places that I go the gas wells are nowhere to be seen.
The Transcontinental Railroad through downtown Rock Springs.

The places that I will travel to are usually out in the vast desert but since Sweetwater county is located halfway between two 13,000 ft. plus mountain ranges, the Wind River Mountains to the north, and the Uinta Mountains to the south. Some of my wanderings are in the mountains. We are also a stones throw away from places like Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, and Dinosaur National Monument, so sometimes places like these will be featured. Nothing says adventure like a ghost town and due to the boom and bust nature of this area, and the close relationship that it has had with extracting energy from the land, it’s no wonder that there are a few ghost towns.

Most of my adventures involve taking my 4X4 down some dirt road, and by road I might mean trail. Sometimes it may be just a faint two track. Sometimes the road might end at which point the hiking begins. I will advise you as to what the conditions might be like for both roads and trails but keep in mind that these kinds of things are in constant flux, and it might be a good idea to check with local authorities for the latest on the condition of roads and trails. By local authorities I mean people such as the BLM, since most of the places I go in Southwest Wyoming are on BLM land, or the Forest Service, or someone like that.
The Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Mountains

I do have a few rules that I follow and I will advise you to do the same:

  • Be prepared. Conditions can change when you are out in the wilderness and you should anticipate ahead of time what kinds of conditions might be possible when you are out in the high desert. Summers are hot and winters are insanely cold. Sometimes winter can even happen in the summer so be prepared.
  • Know the limits of your vehicle. If four-wheel drive is required that means that a two-wheel drive vehicle will get stuck. If you get stuck it is nearly always your own fault, and such a situation could quickly become a life and death ordeal. Whenever possible, go out into the wilderness with some friends and a second vehicle. If you don’t end up going in a group then make sure that someone else knows where you are going.
  • Stay on the trail. Do not leave the roads and trails and make your own. The land belongs to all of us and we must respect it and take care of it.
  • Know the limits of yourself. Don’t attempt a hike that you are not physically capable of doing. What is easy to some maybe strenuous to others.
  • Always bring water. No matter what time of year you go into the middle of nowhere bring plenty of water. If you go in the summer time bring what might seem like a ridiculous amount of water in your vehicle. You never know when you or your vehicle might need it.
  • Get to know Google Earth and use a GPS. The routes that will lead you on the adventure of your choosing can first be plotted on Google Earth and GPS coordinates can even be taken from these plots.
  • No trespassing. Be respectful of private property and if you absolutely want to cross private land you might be able to get permission if you just ask.
  • Bring a camera. You never know what you might want to take a picture of.

The mysterious Adobe Town

Follow these few simple rules and you can have more fun then you know. Not all of the places that I highlight will require 4WD but most of them will. Some places might not require 4WD but might at least require higher ground clearance then what you would have with a normal sedan or minivan.
Adventure Man's adventure rig.
I am not an expert in anything that I am writing about here. I am just a guy that likes to be outside exploring new places and learning fun and interesting things about the place where I live. Any advice that I might offer about going someplace to see something should be taken lightly and with the full knowledge that I may not know what I am talking about.

If you are from Southwest Wyoming then I hope I can show you something that you haven’t seen before, and you too will have a desire to venture forth. If you are not from Southwest Wyoming then hopefully you can see something interesting and come and visit us sometime. 
Adventure man himself hanging out high above Flaming Gorge.