Sunday, February 19, 2012

Firehole Canyon, Flaming Gorge


Firehole Canyon area of Flaming Gorge.

Located about 25 miles southwest of Rock Springs, Firehole Canyon is in the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, right on the shore of Flaming Gorge Reservoir. This is a great recreation spot for many reasons. Here you will find a developed campground, boat ramp, and a nice beach area for swimming. Along the 91 mile length of Flaming Gorge Reservoir there are only 3 designated swim beaches because of the fact that reservoir was formed by building a dam across a deep canyon and filling up an area with water to form a lake that is surrounded by cliffs. You can find a lot of nice spots around Flaming Gorge but this one has great amenities that are right on the water.

Flaming Gorge Reservoir began filling in 1964. This man-made body of water straddles the Utah Wyoming border but most of the reservoir is on the Wyoming side in Sweetwater County. Flaming Gorge Dam and the actual Flaming Gorge, both lie on the Utah side, set up against the north slope of the Uinta Mountains. Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area surrounds the entire lake and has a visitor’s and information center in Green River, WY.  

Firehole Canyon, Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.
Firehole Canyon is at the North end of the reservoir not far from the towns of Rock Springs and Green River. This is a great place to go and spend the day where all of the fun things that Flaming Gorge has to offer can be enjoyed in one place. Amenities at Firehole include a developed campground with paved roads and parking, potable water, covered tables, and flush toilets. Shade is a bit scarce in this high desert environment but there are a few trees in the area. A boat launch facility is also available for those interested in waterskiing and other such aquatic activities. A picnic area is there for the day trippers, and the beach area is rather large and allows you can drive your vehicles and gear right up to the edge of the water. A $5.00 day use fee is charged for anyone who just wants to spend the day, or even a few hours enjoying Firehole Canyon.

The surrounding red and white cliffs make Firehole Canyon an interesting place to explore. Just hiking around the area can reveal all sorts of interesting things. The 19th century explorer, John Wesley Powell set out on his famous expedition through the Colorado River drainage in 1869 just north of here in what is now the town of Green River, WY. He named the actual Flaming Gorge that the Green River flowed through, and he is also the one that gave Firehole Canyon its name. North and South Chimney Rocks are visible from just about anywhere in the Firehole canyon area. The cliffs and spires are made up of Mancos Shale, Mesa Verde Sandstone, and bits of the Green River Formation.

When I go to Firehole it is usually just for the day to do some water skiing, and to ride jet skis with friends. By July the water is warm enough to take a dip and cool off. The swimming at Firehole is nice, and the beach area is great for kids since the water doesn’t get deep very quickly. Just south of Firehole the fishing can be pretty good year round. Every winter the lake will freeze and it is common to see people ice fishing. Flaming Gorge has some huge fish in many varieties; some of the lake trout that come out of the Gorge are stunningly big.

Watch for mule deer, elk, and pronghorn antelope around this area. I have never seen any wild horses in Firehole canyon but I’m sure that there is a few around somewhere since they are so prominent in other areas not far from here. Once I saw a heard of about 100 antelope just south of Firehole canyon. I don’t think I have ever seen a heard of anything wild as big as this heard of antelope was. Fishing on the lake you can catch lake trout, rainbow trout, kokanee salmon, burbot, bass, and cutthroat trout.

To get to Firehole head south on US 191 just west of Rock Springs. As you travel along this road you will climb up onto a ridge that offers great scenery on both sides of the road. A few places along this road offer pullouts where you can get out to enjoy the scenery and take a few pictures. After 13.5 miles you will turn west onto the Firehole canyon road, a sign will help you know when to turn. Follow this road back downhill as it heads into the canyon. You will know when you get to the recreation area as there are plenty of signs, and of course you will notice the reservoir. The road is paved all of the way there and the roads are open in the winter time, although the recreation area is closed.

Firehole is a fun place to visit that doesn’t require a four wheel drive to access, nor do you need a boat to have fun. This is a place that I go several times each year because it is close, scenic, and has some useful amenities.

Adventure Man

Click here for Google Earth route


The beach area.

The campground
One of the Adventure kids riding a ski board.




Friday, February 10, 2012

Pilot Butte



A view towards Black Butte from the top of Pilot Butte.

One of the places that I have probably visited more than any other place around Rock Springs is Pilot Butte. This flat topped butte up on top of White Mountain is a fun place to go because it is so close to town but when you are there you are all alone with nothing but the wild horses and the spectacular 360 view from the top of the butte. I have been there in the middle of July and in the middle of January and it’s always worth the small effort it takes to get there.

Pilot Butte is a formation that is visible for miles around, but it isn’t visible from the towns of Rock Springs and Green River. This is because of the way that it lays well past the rim of White Mountain. This lonesome butte was a marker on the Oregon, Mormon, and California pioneer trails that came through Wyoming. As these pioneers came over South Pass and descended into the Green River basin, they knew that once they could see pilot butte to the south they were almost to the Green River. Considering what a desolate place the Green river basin was, any land mark that showed progress was a welcome sight and once they crossed the Green River they were not far from Fort Bridger.
The area around Rock Springs isn't really flat but when you are up on
White Mountain it sure looks that way. That is Pilot Butte in the distance.

The best thing about Pilot Butte is the view that it affords visitors who are not afraid to climb it. To the east the ridges that make up the western edge of the continental divide basin are visible. To the south Aspen Mountain, Wilkins Peak, and the Uintah mountains are prominent. To the North, the Wind River Mountains are spectacular if the air is clear, which it usually is. To the west you can see all the way to the Bridger valley. I have been up on Pilot Butte in the winter time when the air was especially clear and with binoculars the towns of Farson and Eden were easy to see to the north about 30 miles away, and I think, although I can’t be sure, that I could even see the town of Pinedale about 90 miles to the North up against the Wind River Mountains.
East towards the continental divide.

The best route to Pilot Butte is to take the Gookin-White Mountain road to the top of White Mountain. Once you reach the top of the mountain the road will come to a T where you will turn right. Head down this road that follows the rim of White Mountain for about 3 miles. As you drive down this road Pilot Butte will be visible on the left. White Mountain is interesting when you are up on top because it is so flat and the only thing that breaks towards the sky is Pilot Butte. After 3 miles you will turn to the left where there is an information board that gives some facts about Pilot Butte and the surrounding area.

At this point the route becomes a bit more rough and difficult. This is the portion of the route where 4WD may be needed. This road can be deeply rutted and if you are there in the winter or spring, the ruts will be full of snow and ice. Also be advised that the Gookin-White Mountain road that climbs White Mountain is a smooth dirt road but it is very steep. If there is any snow and ice it’s better to stay off of this road.

After you turn off of the road at the info sign or board, follow the road the rest of the way to the butte, which you will easily see. The road splits at one point and you could go to the left or keep going straight. Both roads head to the butte and neither one is any smoother than the other.
The steep part of the climb. If Adventure Man's 60+ year old mom can make it anyone can.

Once you get to the butte park where ever you want. At this point you will have to start climbing and the first part of the climb is tough because it is steep. This steepness only goes on for about 500 ft. but it can be a tough climb. After this short steep climb you will be at the base of the cliffs that ring the top portion of the butte. In the past there was a steel ladder that someone had built to help you climb the rocks to the top but the ladder broke apart a few years ago. A small piece of it used to remain to help you a little but that piece was also gone the last time I was there in January of 2012. This spot is really not difficult to climb because there is a nook in the rocks that gives you good hand holds and foot holds. I almost always take the Adventure Kids with me when I go and even the 4 year old can climb it with some help.

Once on top you will see that you are at the lowest point of the top and if you walk straight to the west along the trail for about a 1000 ft. you will reach the highest point of Pilot Butte and the 360° views are incredible. Make sure to keep you own adventure kids near you because the cliffs on this end of the Butte are about 300 ft. high. Elevation at the top of Pilot Butte is 7,949 ft.

Wild horses on White Mountain.
Wildlife viewing is always possible; this is Wyoming after all. Keep an eye out for wild horses which are abundant on White Mountain. Sometime you might see 15 or 20 horses along the few miles from the top of the Gookin-White Mountain road to the base of Pilot Butte. I have seen plenty of mule deer and antelope as well. Elk is probably a possibility on White Mountain but I have never seen any up there. Once when I was up on the butte I saw a coyote up there on top with me. I don’t know how he got up there but he must have found a way down because once he saw us he soon disappeared. And of course sage hens can be seen roaming about as well.

Make sure to bring some water with you especially if you go in the summer time. The steep parts of the climb might require some liquid refreshment. As always, a hat and sunscreen would be good since there is absolutely no shade anywhere. Because Pilot Butte is so close to town and you can get there, see the place, and return so quickly, there isn’t much of anything else that you will need. Don’t forget your camera.


North from Pilot Butte to the Wind River Mountains.


Pilot Butte in the winter.



Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Google Earth Routes and KMZ Files

For most of my adventures I will include a specific route that shows the way to the place that I am highlighting. These routes will be in the form of a KMZ file that can be opened in Google Earth. If you have Google Earth on your computer and you open the file it will automatically open Google Earth and plot the route and the file will show up in your My Places in the upper left hand menu. When you close your Google Earth program it will ask if you want to save the route.

If you right click on the route in your My Places directory and select Show Elevation Profile it will give you good information related to the total length of the route and changes in the terrain. As I said before, Google Earth is a great tool to help you plan any adventure.

Adventure Man